domingo, 27 de enero de 2008

Xela to San Salvador

The past few weeks have been filled with enlightenment, anxiety, excitement, learning and ahh the list goes on. After finishing up my studies in Quetzaltenango, I traveled to Antigua to meet the other ArtCorps artists and to attend a rigorous training brimming with creativity, popular education, theater, visual art activities, and many lunches decorated with tortillas, Spanish dialogue and laughter.
During the 5 days of training held at the Rieken Foundation (the headquarters of an education initiative) a team of artists for social action became like a family, and wove a web of support from which we will each venture into our new communities.
In the early hours of the morning of the 23rd I woke to a sky dazzled with a full moon and a sun rising simultaneously over volcanic silhouettes. I said goodbye to Robyn (my El Salvador companera) and Michael who was headed for Atitlan. As each hour passed, goodbyes were said, until there was just one artist left at Casa Don Ismael. Armando, the director of my NGO, FUNDAHMER, would be in Guatemala City until the 26th so I had a few days to gather myself in Antigua before heading out to El Salvador. I had made arrangements to go back to La Union, the language school I studied at last year during the first month of my Latin America adventure. I was warmly welcomed back by the Ramirez family and Emilia, my teacher and good friend. My days at La Union were full and flew by even faster than expected. In the mornings I studied and strolled through the hectic and colorful market looking for fruit and second hand clothes. I thought I was being logical as I packed the same clothes as my first trip, only to discover upon arrival, that my jeans had worn so thin I could see through them when I held them to the light.
Armando and I had arranged to meet in front of La Union on Saturday morning sometime between 9 and 10am. This was a very tentative plan, and we had also exchanged numbers of friends etc. as an attempt to make further connection. The next connection was not made by phone however; it was made in person, when Hermando surprised me towards the end of my last class.
He told me that we would travel to the city that night instead, as he and my new Castilian friends were here and ready to head out soon. I rushed back to the Ramirez house to throw my stuff into my gigantic muchila, and await the arrival of the FUNDAHMER pickup. As it arrived, a light rain began to fall. I hugged Delia goodbye and promised to write soon. I squeezed myself into the truck next to Padre Elias and we were city bound.
The home of Padre Elias was simple and pleasant and sat at the top of the hill looking over a barrio called Perenio. The next morning, Maria would explain that Perenio was home to over 1000 people, whose entire family lived in a home no bigger than our room, spending less than a dollar a day to survive. With in the short duration of their stay, 11 people in Perenio had been killed. Most of the violence was gang related and one of the instances which they witnessed rather safely from the balcony was the shooting of a 16 year old boy.
I cannot imagine what it must be like to wake up everyday with these fears penetrating deeply into ones bones and where life is a claustrophobic triangle of inescapability. Regardless, these courageous people carry on, and people like Padre Elias, bring light into this daunting reality.
After a night spent half sleeping and half pondering, I awoke early to walk down to the project that Elias had explained to me the night before. His efforts over the past few years have been put to the exploration of the many wonders of soy. His vision, which is slowly becoming a reality in this little community in Guatemala City, is of soy cultivation and processing as a means of income, protein as an end to hunger. We visited a small women’s cooperative, where they were hard at work making soy pancakes, milk, cheese, pies, tortillas, dobladas, you name it, all out of soy! I was blown away by the diversity of this beautiful bean, and inspired by their innovation and dedication. We bought a bottle of fresh soymilk, pancakes and a soy cheese pie all for eight quetzales, which is about the equivalent of one US dollar.
Later Elias, gave me various recipes and pamphlets all having to do with soy. This man is brilliant, kind and determined and I feel so lucky that a simple twist of luck or fate , whichever you may believe in, brought me to his home.
That morning, Armando arrived, and we headed out to attend a meeting regarding the current situation in Guatemala, where the Castilians were to give a short talk about their Latin American Agenda. I am still not entirely sure what this agenda is. They have explained bits here and their, but my not so splendid Spanish mixed with their thick and fluid Castilian accents makes for a bit of a language barrier.
After the conference, we said our goodbyes to Elias, and headed on the road to El Salvador. As we approached the boarder, it began to get a lot warmer, but a nice breeze kept us comfortable as we crossed into this lovely little country.
Today is Sunday, and my first real day off since I left Xela. I am using it to catch up on my blog and rest up for the week ahead. Armando and I have a lot to talk about. As it turns out, I will probably only be staying in San Salvador for 2 weeks, or until we find a suitable community for me to live in and begin my project. I am really looking forward to getting to know this country and its profound history.
I hope that all is well with those of you who are reading this today, wherever you may be. May your day be filled with serenity, inspiration and wellbeing.
All of my love,
Laura

viernes, 4 de enero de 2008

An artistic endeavor for social action in Central America

I arrived in Xela, Guatemala (also known as Quezaltzañtenango)last night after a 19 hour journey. I rode by car during the wee hours of the morning, plane as the sun breeched the horizon, and a noisy bus along dusty roads surrounded by beautiful people, a setting sun, and towering volcanoes. I am finally back in Guatemala to commence my next Central American adventure.
For those of you who do not know, for the next 11 months I will be working for an organization called Artcorp. They work with NGOs (non-governmental organizations) using art as a tool for social action. After my training in Antigua, I will head to my NGO, FUNDAMHER, in El Transito, El Salvador.
For now though, I am in Xela, beginning a 2 week stretch at a language school que se llama Casa Xelaxu.